Whenever I write about immigration in the context of the fashion industry, I usually focus on aspects of law and policy. In honor of the Women’s Issue, I want to focus on immigrants in particular, the individuals who are the heart and soul of the American story. America is unbelievably fortunate to be blessed with a vibrant and successful fashion sector, and there is no question that the contributions of women from abroad have helped make it what it is today.
Immigrant women have played an important role in American fashion since some of the earliest days of the industry. Many will be familiar with the Gibson Girl, the fin de siècle era representation of beauty created by illustrator Charles Gibson. Gibson attributed her look to the result of America’s immigrant origins, stating “the ‘melting pot of races’ has resulted in a certain character; why should it not also have turned out a certain type of face?” The earliest depictions of beauty used in the febrile fashion and marketing industries in the U.S., then, are a product of the diverse and wide-ranging experience of new Americans. Because standards of beauty are certainly debatable and early Eurocentric ideas left a huge swath of people out of the equation, the Gibson Girl should be seen not as a paradigm of “pretty” but rather as an early understanding of the multi-cultural nature of fashion.
Women contributed more to the early American fashion and garment industries than simply serving as models or consumers. While they experienced significant restrictions in the U.S., particularly before the 19th Amendment was ratified, they were still able to make their voices heard. Immigrant women, many working in the cramped factories of the Northeast, were able to make significant contributions to the industry behind the scenes, notably in advancing the safety and wellbeing of workers. Clara Lemlich, for example, was a Ukrainian immigrant who led a massive strike of her fellow shirtwaist workers in 1909. Her passion and zeal would help raise awareness for labor rights in the burgeoning U.S. textile industry. The current demand for ethically-sourced garments and textiles and humane working conditions in factories overseas comes from the early reforms that women like Lemlich championed and fought for.
It would be impossible to have a discussion about how immigrant women have shaped American fashion without discussing Diane von Furstenberg. A Belgian-born daughter of a Holocaust survivor, she inherited an indomitable spirit and tenacity that would allow her to ascend to the heights of international fashion. She has created iconic styles and timeless pieces, and anyone familiar with fashion has heard her name. The DVF brand has graced runways around the world and has been worn by luminaries like Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow and former First Lady Michelle Obama. Her designs are included in the collection of The Met and have been shown in galleries from London to Beijing. As the president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, she has been an outspoken champion of immigrants in fashion and beyond.
One of the most rewarding aspects of my job is working with recent graduates from design programs at prestigious schools like Parsons, FIT and Pratt. Many of them are young women who are bringing their talents and unique sensibilities to some of the most respected brands in the world. They represent an exciting future for American fashion — one that is renewed by the vitality and perspectives of immigrants who are raising the bar on innovation. With these new designers, there is also an important conversation taking place about who fashion is for. The standard set by “Gibson Girl” and others that followed is being re-examined and reinterpreted by women from around the globe who are bringing their incredible talents to America.
My firm regularly works with women working in the design and modeling fields from around the world, some of whom are immigrants. One client, First Lady Melania Trump, is one that stands out. But beyond the professionals, immigrant women from all walks of life play a part in how fashion is conceived and presented in the United States. From the incredible colors and silks that are used to make the saris that are increasingly becoming mainstream to the tartans and checks that have long formed the basis of so many timeless trends, immigration has shaped the sartorial life of America. With every new American, there is a new point of view shaped by unique cultural experiences. And more often than not, fashion gives both men and women a way to communicate when language cannot adequately express feelings or tastes.
The American fashion industry is the beneficiary of the hard work and perspectives of a long line of immigrant women. Be it the top designers, world-famous models or individuals who want to express themselves through their clothing choices, each has an important part to play in the industry.
Michael Wildes is the Mayor of Englewood, New Jersey and the author “Safe Haven in America: Battles to Open the Golden Door.” He is a former federal prosecutor and an adjunct professor of immigration law at the Benjamin N. Cardozo School of Law.
