I’ve never been a procrastinator — but when I began writing this article, I found myself needing to pause. Just as the fashion community was about to enjoy its much-anticipated return to live fashion shows and trade events worldwide for the first time in almost two years, the world watched in horror as Russia launched a war against Ukraine and its people.
A dear friend of mine has spent the last two years working with Ukrainian fashion brands with the support of the United States Agency for International Development (USAID) — with its goal being to increase fashion exports from Ukraine into the U.S. She amassed a group of incredibly talented designers and Ukrainian family brands with long creative histories in design and manufacturing, readying themselves to be introduced to United States retailers. Just as its second foray into the U.S. market was beginning in New York, all of the sewing stopped.
The leaders of these brands — 91 Lab, Kachorovska Chereshnivska, Frolov, Paskal, Elena Burenina, Valery Kovalska and Aviatsiya Halychyny — held their collective breath, each one with their many employees and their factories. Without missing a beat, these brands pivoted to create items needed to help their country prepare to sustain and support their fellow Ukrainians during a time of war. For most of us, this is an unthinkable occurrence in a civilized nation during this day and age.
Those Ukrainian fashion brands who were in New York immediately took to sharing with U.S. media in real time what was happening in Ukraine. They provided a window into the sights and sounds of war that I never could have imagined experiencing in my lifetime.
At the onset of the pandemic, an organized humanitarian effort was started in New York by Elyse Kroll called Fashion For Love, with the mission to provide aid for nurses on our front lines. I worked with Kroll and her team and created From Fashion with Love in Los Angeles, where we supported not only the nurses, but also held an event benefiting the Los Angeles Fire Department and the brave firefighters who worked during the fires here in Los Angeles last year. We’ve just recently once again activated From Fashion with Love for a humanitarian effort directed to help Ukraine refugees. For more information, please visit fromfashionwithlove.org.
Turning from foreign affairs and humanitarian efforts, we have recently seen non-gender styling and menswear mixing with womenswear sailing down the runways and all over every fashion blog and publication — which leaves one to consider how and what we will be wearing. Think what you will, but perhaps this trend is truly a moment of conceptual art, which blurs all lines and depicts everyone as equal. Or, just my rose-colored glasses’ view.
On a more serious note, I wait with anticipation to see how those looks become translated into broader marketable/commercial fashion for the upcoming season, as both sides of this aisle (manufacturers and retailers) need to turn a profit. Thankfully, social events and parties will soon resume and people will need and want fresh new frocks, shoes, accessories and suits for these events.
And let’s not forget that California started the “casual chic” trend. I’ve loved when the East Coast buyers flocked to Los Angeles to find the next new trend — it’s now our time to shine. We have tremendous talent and resources here in California. One group taking notice is Fashion Trust — a non-profit initiative dedicated to mentoring young design talent — which is now launching Fashion Trust USA after successfully launching Fashion Trust UK and Arabia. Tania Fares is the founder and co-chair of Fashion Trust, and I applaud her dedication to support rising design talent.
There are many market segments to target, as being the best within a niche will always drive acceptance and revenue. All too often, we see brands trying to be all things to all segments — quite a lofty goal. Perhaps what we have learned from the past two years is to be focused on creating value and meaning for one’s brand, while at the same time being more clever in your customer service and relationships. People like to do business with those they like and trust.
Here in California, we know all too well about preserving our natural resources — please also consider people in this category of natural resources. People with historical knowledge about business and perhaps your brand provide the irreplaceable ability to train, lead and streamline cost savings. Now more than ever, we have the ability to drive jobs as we lead the world in setting fashion and lifestyle trends.
Cheers to seeing color on the runways. Spring is upon us, and I for one cannot wait to break out my beautiful bright colored ensembles, shoes and handbags. Color represents life and optimism, and in our world today, we certainly can use a spoonful of it now.
As president of footwear for Informa Markets, Leslie Gallin developed the FN Platform, the footwear shows at Magic. Gallin scouts the world’s best new designers and trends, providing unparalleled business insights and access into the world of footwear and beyond. Gallin is a board member of Footwear Distributors/Representatives of America, American Apparel and Footwear Associate, Two Ten-Footwear Charity and From Fashion with Love.org, among others, and has held positions at World Shoe Association, Geoffrey Benne, Escada, Louis Feraud and Pauline Trigère . She has been featured in Footwear Plus, Footwear News, O The Oprah Magazine, Vegas, Fox’s Good Day LA, Extra TV and more. missfashion@cs.com
Leslie Gallin
LKG Consulting
missfashion@cs.com
