Many among the general population find nothing wrong with the present styles that are available for both men and women. However, being the inventive nation that we are, there are designers who make a living coming up with new and original styles. Whether the general population will jump at the chance to buy the latest new styles or simply nod at the new views and purchase the same things they are used to is anybody’s guess.
There is good news for those in the “new styles” group. Style awards were announced in a recent article by Isabelle Hore-Thorburn, who wrote, “In past years, rising stars such as Pyer Moss and Christopher John Rogers collected $400,000 in grant money when they took out the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Prize. This year, however, all 10 designers will receive a grant.”
“After an incredibly challenging time for all of us in fashion, especially here in New York, we’re thrilled that this year we are able to support all of our finalists,” said Anna Wintour, global editorial director of Vogue and chief content office of Condé Nast. “It’s not only a vote of confidence in their talents, but in a brighter future for American fashion.”
All of the winners of the CDFA/Vogue Fashion Fund Prize grants are designers who are at the forefront of innovation and creativity in their fields. Among finalists described in Hore-Thorburn’s article were:
Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta of Eckhaus Latta, which was among the first fashion labels to adapt to the changing environment and pivot their strategy during the COVID-19 pandemic. The NYC-based label quickly tapped into their loyal downtown following to create their own content for their digital channels. Eckhaus Latta is known for its unconventional approach — championing gender-fluid designs and offering garments that are defined by the wearer.
Lawyer-turned-designer Batsheva Hay, who started off designing clothes for herself. Now, Hay’s Victorian-Amish-Hasidic-style “house dresses” are worn by the likes of Erykah Badu, Cindy Sherman and Courtney Love.
Anifa Myuemba, who found a creative way to respond to the pandemic, using 3-D animation to present a groundbreaking digital fashion show (“Pink Label Congo”) via Instagram Live. The largely self-taught designer is a favorite of Beyoncé, Zendaya and Tracee Ellis Ross.
House of Aama, a culturally-inspired lifestyle brand that is rooted in the ethos of the African continent and diaspora. Beginning as an upcy- cling Etsy shop by then-teenaged Akua Shabaka and her mother Rebecca Henry, the Black- owned fashion label’s latest offerings cater to “various skin tones that exist within Blackness,” said the brand.
Kenneth Nicholson, who is broadening the narrative of American menswear. After completing fashion studies at the Academy of Art in San Francisco, Nicholson enlisted in the United States Navy where he took notice of military dress. While he made a name for himself by incorporating flowing silhouettes and decadent fabrics in his menswear designs, he is now open- ing up his label to incorporate female tailoring.
Khiry, which is a luxury brand inspired by the Af- rican Diaspora. With a focus on bold femininity and a goal of identifying and celebrating a global African aesthetic, Khiry embodies strength, femininity, power and romance. Jameel Mohammed founded the company in 2016 as a
student at the University of Pennsylvania, with a Kickstarter campaign that raised $25,000 in less than a month.
Queens native Laquan Smith, who started his brand at the age of 21 after spending his youth learning from his grandmother, who instilled a passion and skill for sewing and pattern making. His distinctive work has caught the attention of Beyoncé, Rihanna, Lady Gaga and Kim Kardashian, all of whom were early supporters of the gifted designer.
Abrima Erwiah, of Studio One Eighty Nine, who has more than 16 years of fashion and lux- ury experience. She is a former global market- ing and communications executive for Bottega Veneta, a luxury-goods company under Kering (former Gucci Group/PPR) Group where she stayed for nearly a decade.
Edvin Thompson’s conceptual clothing brand Theophilio, which combines nostalgia from his youth in Jamaica with New York city’s progressive culture. Thompson has been dropping a collection every September/October for the past four years with an aim to put Jamaica on the map.
Willy Chavarria, whose avant-garde approach to streetwear coupled with his socially-minded views has earned him a significant place in fashion. The conceptual label is Chavarria’s way to use fashion as both a political and creative outlet — the clothes are meant to be empowering and expressive in their approach to silhouette and fabrication.
Benjamin S. Seigel, Esq. is Of Counsel to the firm of G&B Law, LLP. He specializes in matters relat- ed to the textile and apparel industries. He can be reached at bseigel@gblawllp.com.
