What do denim, Marie-Antoinette and flower power have in common? They have changed fashion forever. In “Tell Me Mode,” her new series published for Bayard Presse, Annabelle Kajbaf, a Paris-born and bred fashion journalist, pushes the new limits of fashion history.
For this month’s cover, Fashion Mannuscript interviews this style connaisseur on her latest venture to the small screen.
What inspired you to launch “Tell Me Mode?”
Fashion is my passion and I have longed to share the story of fashion on my own show for years. While I grew up in a family of antique dealers in the left bank of Paris, I always had an eye for detail, but mostly, I always wanted to know the story behind each piece. What were the visual inspirations? How was it made? We all have a basic knowledge of Roman and Greek mythologies, but when it comes to fashion, the industry includes a whole lot of layers of local cultures. People might not know how a culture’s music, food and architecture ties into fashion. I always found this fascinating. Fashion belongs to us all; it is a true democratic tool. From edgy to traditional looks, fashion tells each person’s individual story. It is this inclusive aspect that I wanted to explore in “Tell Me Mode.”
How is fashion the key to history?
Fashion is power. A statement outfit, a memorable piece, can bring you back to an emotional place. Whether it is the sapphire ring of Lady Di, the suits of Jackie Ho or the wedding dress of Carrie Bradshaw, fashion is anchored in popular imagery.
As I was looking online to know more about fashion, I realized there were no TV series about fashion history. Sure, there are plenty of documentaries out there about specific brands and icons, but I wanted to spread knowledge and show my audience how to connect the dots between a piece we all know and what it meant to society at that specific time period.
For example, the first episode, “Denimania,” is about denim. Jeans are the most purchased piece of clothing in the world, and yet, very few people know they were invented in France in the 18th century. The same goes for Marie-Antoinette, who despite being a fashion icon herself, launched the “pastel” trend, as well as having inspired puff dresses and silk chokers. These are certainly trends we still see today. While I think knowledge is power, knowledge of fashion brings into light what happened in society throughout the years and can really bring a positive message and hopefully a more inclusive one to the industry. History informs daily life in all industries, and the same goes for fashion.
Who inspires you the most?
Daring (yet humble) people inspire me. In a world made in and for vanity, it is the real thinkers who inspire me to be a better person. From Christian Dior to Halston, from Yves Saint-Laurent to Jean-Paul Gaultier, as well as Thierry Mugler and Vivienne Westwood, I love designers who narrate a story within the story. Fashion should only be the inception of all humanity. In other words, it is a reflection of our souls, all constructed under the prism of elegant decadence.
I love designers who have architectural, biblical, mythological and overall art references. It is always nice to write about designers who have a story to tell, but it truly becomes a delight when they create a conversational piece. One that will start a deep liaison between the holder and the viewer of the piece. For example, the toga dress from the Roman Empire has been one of the hottest trends this summer, embodying the freedom of women in Rome, adorned with a chic gold belt and breathable fabrics, from linen to cotton. It reminds me of Elizabeth Taylor’s costumes in her Cleopatra era. Feeling like a goddess has never been that easy! With pieces rooted in historical culture, the outfit becomes more than clothing, it turns into a piece of a museum on your body.
How do the French and American fashion scenes differ?
While French fashion works on timeless pieces, from the little black dress to a classic jeans and tee shirt combo, there are innovative designers. Fashion is an art in France, so we do have our rock stars like Jacquemus and Marine Serre who always put on a conceptual show and a line that matches with an ethereal vibe. In Paris, most Parisians wear bloc colors, which means no patterns and mostly contrasted schemes of coloration, from black, to beige, navy and gray. It does reflect the gloom we have all year long (it rains as much in Paris than in London), but it lacks a touch of color in my opinion!
In America, since the country has been thriving on fashion since the mid fifties, you have a broad range of genres: from colorful, to eclectic, elevated street style and boho chic.
Los Angeles fashion reflects the nature surrounding the city: vivid pink and orange zests of color, to imitate the beautiful summer sunsets; tropical turquoise and blue for the sky and the ocean. New York offers a more futuristic combination, from pitch black to silver and softer grays. While New York is all about being elevated street style, Los Angeles is about boho chic, like a neverending parade of fun.
They take their inspirations from wider landscapes and offer a larger choice of canvas.
How does the show explore the differences between French and American fashion?
The historical background of fashion of it all is crucial. France has been providing the utmost sophistication for the Versailles court since the early 18th century, while America has been creating since the beginning of the 19th century. While France takes its inspirations from the Roman Empire until now and everything in between, America is thriving on a multicultural society that is proud to flaunt their differences. In other words, the more you are unique, the better! In France, it is more about “fitting in the mold” if I might say. In “Tell Me Mode”, I debunk the myths of fashion and show that it is easy to wear clothes to make a unique statement.
Why do you think fashion history is secretive?
Media often reports about fashion trends but very few report on fashion history. That said, I believe it is the most powerful tool one can have. We now know with sustainable movements how and who made the clothes, but what inspired the designer? What is the message behind the concept? Having clothes surfing on a color or a shape trend without a back story is just an empty shell. It is when the clothes reveal a true poetic journey behind the product itself that you truly educate your audience. And I believe that fashion should be about educating people. What they wear is a political tool, whether they want it or not.
Unfortunately, the fashion industry does not work on an “open data” basis, while so many gifted designers out there would benefit from public knowledge. This is why “Tell Me Mode” is going to be a very decisive moment in the history of fashion media, as it explores history that has never been unveiled before.
Which advice would you give to fashionaholics?
Stay curious! If fashion is an art of exquisite research, it is also a science to a T. It took me years to interview fashion designers and be on top of my game, you only have 24 hours a day, so I always recommend fashion journalists to at least read the news for an hour or two in the day. It really has to be your passion; if you think and live for journalism, and the sky’s the limit!
Great fashion is always outside of the box. Pushing the boundaries of gravity, making unique shapes of dresses, sculptural pieces, but always inspired from antique stories. History repeats itself and fashion is no exception. It is when you know where you are from that you can write the story. So my advice would be: learn where fashion comes from, and take it from there. Take a pen, a piece of paper and write the future of fashion!
What are you most excited about this year for fashion?
The Sex and the City Reboot “And Just Like That” is to me the epitome of urban looks. In “Tell Me Mode,” I try to show what a modern woman wears, while sharing my love for the city’s life as featured in a memorable show like “And Just Like That.” From vintage pieces to new runway designers, it is launching a few weeks before New York Fashion Week and puts Manhattan, once more, at the heart of the conversation. There is not a single city in the world more vibrant than New York; it mingles all spices, genders, colors and sizes and I think that AJLT really embodied it perfectly. Molly Rogers and Danny Santiago are true legends of style and what defines the definition of timeless chic.
I am also looking forward to going to the Christian Dior exhibition in Paris and the Hermes one in Los Angeles. What can I say: French fashion will always inspire me the most… Its classic elegance and nonchalant je-ne-sais-quoi will always be a league of its own.
What else can fashion gurus anticipate in this season of “Tell Me Mode”?
In this first season of “Tell Me Mode”, I will show the story of denim, from being a simple piece of clothing catered to the working class to a chic outfits for rockstars, to Marie-Antoinette, a queen whom vanity led to a tragic life and the power of print florals, from the simple Liberty print patent in the United Kingdom to the “Peace and Love” movement during the Vietnam war in the United States. Fashion is politics and I wanted to put this into light during the first three episodes.
