Having inherited a couture fashion company from his grandmother, international Fashion designer of luxury womenswear, Cho Cho Cheng, took it upon himself to keep it alive, stating “It was small, very intimate and couture from the beginning, and then I grew it. I didn’t have a plan; I just took whatever opportunities given to me.” Cho Cheng did just that when he decided to learn about design as well as the tailoring and fashion industry, finding it very important to learn before operating the business he had inherited. He took matters into his own hands and attended Parsons The New School for Design in New York. Upon graduating, he relaunched the inherited company under his name— ChoCheng.
Learning did not stop for Cho Cheng, as he went back to London, the place where he grew up, taking several apprenticeships to study British tailoring which led to setting up his own workshop there. “ I would say those are the most documented tailoring techniques; very specific techniques and details you can trace back in history, ” he states. He then took his talents back to New York and started doing fashion shows which included New York Fashion Week.
Having opened shop in New York around 2009, Cho Cheng primarily focused on having a couture business. He took resources available to him from family friend and American art collector, editor and fashion designer, Mary McFadden of which he was able to have a whole team of seamstresses available for him when needed.The interesting part about his shop was that it was in his own home on 62nd Street. He launched ready-to-wear clothing due to being told that he could not operate a business within his own home. Funny enough, that person was a client that we know very well—the Fashion Police Icon Joan Rivers, who lived next door at the time. The icon was one of his first customers who also recommended a very good real estate agent for him, leading to a space on Madison Avenue. Cho Cheng also had a shop on 69th street in a landmark building and is currently at Fifth avenue, where he became the first luxury Asian Designer, of which he is very proud of. This Fifth Avenue store opened up right before COVID and prevailed post-lockdown as the store was one of few to reopen once non-essential businesses were able to, leading individuals to shop there.
Cho Cheng continues to have success in the fashion industry, as he has expanded his showcases to include Paris Fashion Week, with his first show being this past October.
“It [Paris Fashion Week] has always been my dream. That’s the dream of most designers, to show in Paris,” states Cho Cheng, who enjoyed his experience as he felt great returning to his roots of which he had his formative years as a designer.
Cho Cheng’s first formal internship was in Paris at Sonia Rykiel. He said it had a great influence on him and his career, truly enjoying his time there, adding “I think that’s part of the reason that I’ve always expected my brand to become a French brand essentially.”
When it comes to fashion, Cho Cheng values being natural and cruelty free, with the desire of being completely vegan.
“I’m a bit of a rainbow child. I think that’s what, what people call it. I feel very close to the environment. I became a vegetarian when I was 12. Naturally I would want the brand and my lifestyle to match.”
Cho Cheng prefers using natural fiber and fabric because it’s more comfortable and breathable, fitting his aesthetics, saying “you have to feel comfortable in what you’re wearing. And when you’re comfortable, you can feel confidence.” He stopped using silk, now using a vegan silk called cupro made from cotton and is also using upcycled cashmere, eventually phasing out cashmere altogether, however the most difficult to do as most of his customers are really attached to the material.
Cho Cheng adds “Conserving the environment and history are things that I’m interested in and consider when I choose fabric.” He has been using cotton the most, as it has a long history as a textile, with also being used as tweed or boucle, and has been using a little bit of linen. He uses the historical fabric mill Linton, which makes the fabric for Chanel stating, “I’m combining natural and vegan material with heritage,” as he also believes the fabric mill to be vintage.
When it comes to the Cho Cheng brand, craftsmanship is important. Cho Cheng likes things handmade with a rustic feel to it. He also incorporates the essence of romance and fairytales that one can relate to with seamlessly blended upcycled vintage fabrics of pink Harris Tweed and silk charmeuse. These are complemented by newly sourced vegan materials, including cotton boucle, cotton velvet, cotton crepe and Swarovski crystals. His latest collection showcased at Paris Fashion Week included an array of pink shades featuring signature hand-sewn petals, braids, cords, box pleats, and embroidered buttons. Cho Cheng credits a French movie called The Umbrellas of Cherbourg for its influence, being a very romantic film with beautiful cinematography as well as one of his favorites.
As far as what is next for Cho Cheng, a full formal accessories line is to be expected. Regarding partnerships, anyone doing vegan is considered. Cho Cheng eventually wants to have a perfume line and ultimately be doing haute couture, his dream fashion.
With what he wants to leave people with, Cho Cheng says “Hopefully through my collection, I can spread the idea of conservation. It’s good to have a brand that’s good for the environment. I’m selling beautifully made products and hopefully that can also tell people what conservation is about. He adds “It’s just a happier way of telling people, you know, a vegan product can be beautiful and comfortable. I’m giving a vegan option that they can choose from, that’s my goal. “
