In 1979, young dreamers used to say, “When I grow up, I want to be a fashion designer.” Fast forward to 2019, and now they say, “When I grow up, I want to be a fashion stylist/merchandiser to the stars!” The passing of time has changed the apparel industry’s career choices.
In the past, fashion designers would design and predict the clothing we would purchase and wear. New designs would hopefully create a demand for a new trend that would result in more people following the latest trends, and, in so doing, more clothing would be sold. So what is happening in 2019? The runways of Paris, London and New York no longer rule the trends and, often, are more for entertainment.
There are many factors over the past few years that have resulted in these changes. For example, no real trends have been created as most of us don’t want to wear a uniform, so we choose to wear whatever we wish and still for the most part look current (at least in the eye of the beholder!). Additionally, there is not much else that, over the years, has not already been done that could be considered new and interesting enough for people to want to wear.
Our casual lifestyle and being able to work from home have also had a massive impact on apparel purchasing. Athleisure clothing has had a serious trend effect on what is acceptable to wear. You can wear it from the gym to lunch, then throw on a fancy top or jacket over those leggings to go out to dinner! This trend has some good points but also some not so good looks.
Then we have the amazing millennials who have changed the way they shop. As the baby boomers changed trends after the second world war, the millennials are doing things their way. Consider the big push from the public, and thus, from the industry, for more sustainability in production of textiles and clothing. Add in the demand for recyclable products, which is also influencing changes in the industry and manufacturing methods, and you will see what an impact the next generation has.
In some ways, used clothing is being recreated with almost couture methods being necessary. A recycled T-shirt that was purchased for $34, for example, may end up costing considerably more.
Speed to market and mass customization means that instead of producing thousands of units for each order that could end up in a landfill, retailers are buying more often in smaller qualities and are restocking on a weekly basis. This is better for the retailer who does not know how the weather and the economy will affect buying habits. It is also good for the small manufacturer who usually does not have the budget to produce thousands of units. Selling direct through online channels cuts out the middle wholesaler, which can make clothing more affordable.
Fashion design colleges and universities are feeling a decline in enrollment, perhaps due to fewer student loans granted. Past government loans were given easily, leaving graduating students with large debts and fewer design job openings. The recent changes on many levels have impacted the traditional methods of fashion education. There is a push for more short-term training and even a revival of apprenticeship programs for trades. Technical skills are still in demand in producing apparel.
So where have all the designer jobs gone? The downturn in creative apparel jobs is a result of a number of changes within the industry. We are not being directed about what to wear like we used to, and there are a fewer emerging trends that are obvious each season. Those new trends and styles are sometimes mixed in with other clothing that may have been in your wardrobe for several years. That nice cold-shoulder blouse or puffed-sleeves top that was purchased last year can be worn over the pants or jeans you have been wearing for several years.
Stylists and merchandisers are in higher demand than fashion designers for other reasons besides the lack of trends. The fact is that, as more and more people purchase online, the online platforms need to be merchandised to entice buyers. This, mixed in with the “no trends” trend, means that many people don’t know how to merchandise themselves. The stylist is responsible for merchandising styles in different ways to show how they can be worn and on different body types. They should also understand important demographics and how you live and your location. Nordstrom, for example, is leading the way, with stylists in stores to help customers understand the best styles for their body types and life styles.
Designers with good technical skills are always in demand. It is important to the industry to have realistic, experienced designers, technical designers, merchandisers and stylists who are current with all the technical changes within the industry.
These are interesting times, but change is always inevitable. We just need to be prepared and willing to adapt to these changes.
Frances Harder
Fashion for Profit
frances@fashionforprofit.com
